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FARE MINDED; Sam's II: Philippine Soul Food
[FINAL Edition]
The Washington Post - Washington, D.C.
Subjects: Restaurants -- Sams II Karaoke & Restaurant-Wheaton MD
Author: Zibart, Eve
Date: Sep 8, 2000
Start Page: N.21
Section: WEEKEND

As to pork, well, Filipino cooking is the soul food of Southeast Asia, and nearly every cut of pork here is intentionally "rich." You can order fried pork fat with vinegar, braised pork and chitterlings, sweet-and-sour hocks, tripe (both pork and beef, actually) and deep- fried pork knuckles, a concept that can only be called redundant. On the lighter side, so to speak, you could order pork stewed with potatoes and tomatoes, wok-roasted pork, a tamarind soup with pork ribs, a (not too) spicy broiled pork or the very classic Spanish- Filipino adobo, braised pork in a soy-vinegar marinade. And then there are the noodles and dumplings and pork fried rice and "pieces of pork sauteed in shrimp fry," and so on. You get the idea.

Among the best dishes are oxtail and tripe stew with a peanut sauce; rice noodles with chicken (or pork, of course) and stir-fried vegetables with a bit of citrus; spicy vegetables and hot peppers in coconut cream; charbroiled pork with soy, vinegar and peppers ("kilawing baboy"); earthy beef stewed in a rich liver-tomato sauce with carrots and potatoes; and milkfish in a tamarind soup. Note that the pork-tomato stew is called menudo, but unlike the famous Latin American menudo, doesn't include tripe--for a change. The chicken version, sauteed with potatoes, carrots and green peppers in tomato sauce, is quite plain, for those intimidated by the other choices.

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