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Pomegranate is our personal piece of Persia
[ONT Edition]
Toronto Star - Toronto, Ont.
Date: Nov 13, 2004
Start Page: J.14
Section: Arts
Abstract (Document Summary)

We began dinner with selections from an extensive hors d'oeuvre list in the summertime, a spread of starters is a meal in itself. Eschewing my favourite eggplant dishes (the kashk-e bademjaan, $6.50, is a magnetic concoction of smoky charred eggplant, mint, garlic and walnuts) my companion and I chose the dolmeh ($2.95), four warm, lemony cylinders of rice and herbs, wrapped in vine leaves. With them, as so often in the Persian menu, came a scoop of dense yogurt. Gilding the culinary lily, we added maast-o-museer ($3.75), a bowl of yogurt and scallions, the latter a Middle Eastern variety with a sweet and subtle tang the perfect complement to warm slivers of crunchy Persian bread.

By the time we reached dessert, the honey-laden pastries that are typical Persian meal-enders had lost their appeal. Searching for something lighter, we chose the dessert of the day, an unusual saffron and rosewater ice cream with pistachios. It arrived artistically topped with slivered almonds and a sprinkling of juicy pomegranate seeds, on a plate dusted with cinnamon. The portion was based on double occupancy, and the golden, rich and creamy density, as well as the syrupy sweetness, reminded us of how much we'd eaten earlier. To lighten up, we ordered a pot of fresh mint tea and drank it (untraditionally) without the large cube of sugar beloved by Iranians.

Lucas Oleniuk TORONTO STAR The qeymeh at Pomegranate are delicate nuggets of lamb simmered with golden lentils in a tomato-based broth.Lucas Oleniuk TORONTO STAR The dolmeh are cylinders of rice and herbs, wrapped in vine leaves. Lucas Oleniuk TORONTO STAR The dolmeh are cylinders of rice and herbs, wrapped in vine leaves.

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