A former chaplain, the Frug does very little cooking. To him, life is a banquet and we are all happy guests at God's bountiful table. His series is an investigation into the ethnic cuisines that have migrated into the North American melting pot. Each show has a different theme country. His crew trails him as he globe-trots from one "glorious" cuisine to another and patronizes the local peasantry. Back in the kitchen, his assistant Craig ("you have met Craig, haven't you?") does most of the work. The Frug chuckles and chortles and puts things on plates.

In the 1970s, [Graham Kerr] was the golden boy of cooking. With his boyish manner and frequent slurps from a wine glass, he set hearts afire in the kitchen. Now repenting for past culinary sins, the galloping Graham is a born-again nutritionist. Goodbye fatty French food, hello "minimax" - as in "minimize risk and maximize flavor." If his recipes are somewhat lacking in flavor, Kerr advises "you can always add a little salt."

color photos: GRAHAM KERR: The former Galloping Gourmet has repented for his culinary sins. Too bad; [Madhur Jaffrey]: Her Far Eastern Cookery series sets the standard; [Jeff Smith]: Life is a banquet for The Frug, an expert in psycho-babble who does very little cooking; [Delia Smith]: Her guide to the foods of summer is beautifully photographed; [Madeleine Kamman]: Her show presents textbook French cooking with a twist; [Burt Wolf]: Well-informed host is best when he lets his guests do the talking.