But newness isn't all good. Sabals can be new as in "nouvelle," with precious prices sometimes larger than the portions, and despite the years of experience, food can still be uneven in quality.

My main regret is that it remains new because so many other restaurants haven't caught on or up to it. Downtown Dunedin, however, boasts more uptown cooking than most of the county: Bon Appetit and Kelly's are Sabals' neighbors.

Sabals in particular remains a fashionable destination for local foodies. Behind a humdrum storefront is a cozy, sophisticated dining room for 40. Black, white and gray touches and art deco details give it subdued formality, but tables set with odd pieces of bright depression glass add color and aaahs (especially the cobalt blue).