ARCHIVES

In 1999, Olive Garden established its Culinary Institute of Tuscany on the grounds of [Italo Zingarelli]'s vineyard. This is the restaurant chain's own cooking school, where hundreds of chefs and managers train each year. The weeks spent there enhance knowledge of Italian cooking. South Attleboro culinary manager Robert Novacek hasn't been yet, but he is filling in for a manager on maternity leave who did.

Knowing this, I ordered from the Tuscan specials portion of the menu and enjoyed an outstanding dish of ravioli di Portobello ($10.95), mushroom-stuffed pasta in a smoked-cheese and sun-dried- tomato sauce. The sauce was nicely balanced with layers of cream, the contrasting brightness of the tomatoes and the sweetness of fresh scallions. The stuffing was a savory portobello puree with a blend of delicate spices, stuffed into a light dough cooked al dente.

Olive Garden, 1240 Newport Ave., South Attleboro. (508) 399- 8434, www.olivegarden.com. Casual. No reservations. Accessible. Highchairs. AE, DIS, DC, MC, V. Open daily at 11 a.m. for lunch; dinner menu served from 4 until 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Appetizers $5.75 to $8.25; entrees $9.50 to $19.75; desserts $4.75 to $5.75. Approximately 40 wines by the glass and bottle, $4.25 to $7.50; and $17 to $100, respectively.