2. Pound veal with a meat tenderizer until 1/8-inch thick. Brush veal with oil, sprinkle with desired salt and pepper. Grill about 1 1/2 minutes, turning to score the meat. Serve with lemon wedges. Makes 2 servings. PER SERVING (veal and vegetables): 253 calories; 127 mgs. cholesterol; 8 grams total fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 104 mgs. sodium Ida Cerbone Manducatis, Long Island City Chef . . . down-home yet creative Italian cooking . . . grows her own herbs . . . cooks to order for special diets . . . healthful dishes include cannelini beans with sauteed broccoli rabe . . . uses plenty of garlic and fine virgin olive oil . . . try the poached and chilled whiting salad. Chef's Tip: "Cooking chicken on the bone gives the dish much more flavor," said [Ida Cerbone]. For this recipe, she removes the skin and cuts through the bone. And slow cooking in wine offers flavor without extra fat, she said. Nutritionist's Note: When it comes to chicken, the skin has got to go. That's where fat, particularly saturated fat, lurks. If you're on a low-sodium diet, substitute mushrooms for olives in this recipe. And remember that Italian cooking in general is a good option for cholesterol counters; new findings indicate olive oil may help lower cholesterol levels.

2. Add wine, olives, capers, onions, garlic and rosemary. Cover and continue cooking another 10 minutes or until onions are tender. Garnish with parsley. Serve with steamed broccoli rabe and pasta. Makes 4 servings. PER SERVING: 241 calories; 73 mgs. cholesterol; 11 grams total fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 104 mgs. sodium Mark Sumberg-Giuricich Crooked Hill, Commack Head chef and co-owner . . . a Culinary Institute of America graduate . . . grilled dishes and fish in parchment are house favorites . . . traveled extensively to learn about biscuits and gravy in Nebraska, bouillabaisse in southern France. Chef's Tip: Fish is an obvious choice for low-cholesterol cooking, but it easily can be overcooked. "For sure-fire moist and succulent fish, cook fish in parchment paper," said Sumberg-Giuricich, who added that with this method, the juices are retained. Parchment paper is available at Macy's Cellar and some gourmet shops. Nutritionist's Note: Fatty fish are now fine for people on low-cholesterol diets. Researchers have found that the omega-3 fatty acids found in fish like salmon, bluefish, mackerel and fresh tuna may help protect against heart attacks by acting as an anticoagulant in the blood. It's no longer crucial to select only lean, white-flesh fish. Salmon Baked in Parchment With Cognac, Leeks and Carrots 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 6-ounce salmon fillets freshly ground pepper to taste salt, if desired 2 tablespoons julienne of carrots 2 tablespoons julienne of leeks (white part only) 2 tablespoons cognac

4. To serve, open paper at the table by slicing through the top with a sharp knife. Makes 2 servings. Serve with asparagus with lemon and parsley. PER SERVING: 281 calories; 68 mgs. cholesterol; 11 grams total fat; 1.8 mgs. saturated fat; 178 mgs. sodium John Scala and Bill Nelson The Great Dane, Huntington Co-chefs . . . a 6-month-old restaurant specializing in French-American cooking . . . enjoy creating main dishes and desserts . . . cater to special dietary needs, if notified in advance . . . menu changes seasonally . . . right now duck is served with prunes and Armagnac sauce. Tip: When customers request low-cholesterol dinners, Nelson said, "we will cook for them." The chefs collaborated on this pasta dish, substituting a roast-pepper puree for a cream sauce - full of flavor but not cholesterol. Nutritionist's Note: Shellfish now get the green light for cholesterol-watchers. Although shrimp and lobster are higher in dietary cholesterol than other shellfish, they are very low in total fat and saturated fat; in addition, the omega-3 fatty acids supplied by shellfish tend to neutralize cholesterol's impact. Don't go wild, but enjoy oysters, scallops, clams, mussels, shrimp and lobster in moderation.