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Hartford Courant - Hartford, Conn.
Author: GIUCA, LINDA||||||Courant Food Editor
Date: Nov 30, 2006
Start Page: G.2
Section: FLAVOR
Abstract (Document Summary)

Although the American Heart Association probably won't endorse a book that glorifies such a high-fat meat -- and [Joanna Pruess] admits that bacon is fatty -- she points out that "the fat is the very thing that gives bacon its taste." Two slices have 6 grams of fat, she says, but bacon has less saturated fat than butter.

Pruess gives a short history of bacon, discusses curing methods and provides a glossary of bacon terms. She also lists a mail-order guide to artisanal bacon, including Connecticut's own Nodine's Smokehouse in Torrington.

The book's recipes also do a good job of seducing the reader. Some, like Alsatian bacon and onion tart and Basque chicken in red wine, are Pruess' take on classic ethnic dishes. Others, like the guide to the perfect BLT or the Egg McEnglish Muffin, are American in theme. A surprise to even the more ardent bacon fans may be the dessert chapter of four recipes, ranging from white chocolate dipped pork rinds to pecan-brown sugar and bacon ice cream.

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