Walking into Rome's La Parolaccia restaurant is like taking a curtain call in a Broadway flop.

Howls of derision greet every customer who squeezes through the narrow front door. By the time you sit down, you've probably been insulted more in 5 minutes than you have in the rest of your life.

It's all in an evening's work at La Parolaccia, where the customers get a tougher grilling than the steaks.